The Cyprus Weekly: Restaurant Review by Niki Proctor
Hailing from Manchester I was spoiled for choice
with a glut of Indian restaurants on my doorstep, so moving to Cyprus posed a
very real quandary: Where would I get my regular curry fix?
Every single person I asked swore by Masalas, many even adding that
it was “even better than the UK.” In disbelief I headed down to see what the
fuss was about with a fellow Manc and curry fiend, Amanda, in tow.
Occupying a site across from the sandy beaches on Dhekelia Road, Masalas has stood in the same spot serving Indian food for 19 years, with the
same Head Chef for 15 of them. The menu doesn’t turn over any major surprises
adhering to the usual blue-print of Indian restaurants, with a few notable
exceptions: One being the slow-roasted lamb shank and another being a home-made
curry invented by the owner himself. As it turns out, after a quick chat following our banquet, he’s invented most of the recipes with the help of an authentic
Indian chef and they’re obviously a winning formula, having perfectly
synergised the herbs and spices to create not only outstanding curries but
special depths of flavour.
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| Home made chutneys and sauces |
We kicked off with trusty poppadoms and home-made chutneys
and sauces; the poppadoms snappy, non-greasy and warm. The mango chutney is in a league of its own with actual chunks of succulent mango enlaced in a delicious sweet
sauce, the best I’ve ever tried; onions with fresh coriander; a hot red, red-hot
sauce; and a mild herb creamy yoghurt sauce that didn’t spare on taste.
My companion loves a prawn dish and she insisted we plump
for the King Prawns in Garlic Sauce on Poori Bread, whilst I opted for the
Seekh Kebab laced with exotic spices. The prawn dish was demolished in seconds,
with Amanda in raptures about the non-stingy “meaty”, “melt in the mouth”
portion of prawns adorning the flatbread, whilst I savoured the punchy-spiced,
orange-spiked lamb mince kebab that awakened the appetite for more highly spiced
mains.
Straight into the curries we had greedily ordered four
between us: Chicken Tikka Masala, Lamb Bhuna, Beef Madras and a Chicken
Passanda. We shared a Peshwari Naan (almond and raisin studded) and a fluffy,
light pilao rice. I regretted sharing the Peshwari instantly. It was like being
asked to share my Cadbury’s selection box at Christmas as a kid, I didn’t want to give
any of it away and just one bite immediately assured me that this place
operated in a different class to the rest.
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| You will instantly regret sharing this. |
The Madras was a taste sensation – tongue fired from the
chilli yet simultaneously soothed by notes of coconut and it was my absolute stand
out dish of the night cradling beef so tender I could have sliced it with a feather. The Passanda is a new one on me and crafted from blended cashew nuts, ordered as
a wildcard to see what it was all about. I’m glad we did as it revealed itself
to be a taste-rich, creamy curry with a really distinctive flavour.
Perfection. The Bhuna delivered succulent lamb that flaked at the prod of a
fork, bathing in a rich sauce with a slight after-kick and the Tikka Masala (Amanda’s
favourite) arrived in a thick, dreamy tomato based curry sauce, drenched in
flavour and finished with a swirl of thick fresh cream. The best she’s ever had
apparently and she doesn’t mince her words. When pushed for the secret the
staff only revealed that the chicken marinade alone involves 15 individual
spices. That’s before even touching a sauce. Impressive.
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| Delectable curries from Masalas Indian in Cyprus |
As we left the owner told us about his special meal offer
where you can order a chicken or prawn curry of your choice, pilau or plain
rice, a garlic or plain naan and all the poppadoms and chutneys for just €14,50.
Can this place get any better? I doubt it.
Why should I go?
To experience the ultimate taste-bud sensation that only the best curry can deliver.
Who will I meet?
Foodies, couples, large groups of friends, Peter Andre…he’s a big fan and never fails to visit when he’s in town.
What should I wear?
Smart-casual.
How much will I pay?
€14,50 special meal deal runs Sunday – Friday. 15% off ala carte menu every day. €2,95 pint of beer with the drinks menu recently having been reduced in price by 15% on all alcoholic drinks.
Extra info:
Masalas caters for parties, celebrations and feasts. Look out for their occasional live jazz nights which are proving popular.
This review appeared in The Cyprus Weekly national newspaper 2013.
Masalas Indian Restaurant, Dhekelia Road, Larnaca. Tel: 24644950
Facebook @masalasindianrestaurant
